San Siro: Soaked cathedral. The concrete church in the rain, with the crown.

Words: Reece Mullen

Images: Reece Mullen

From 2019, one of football’s greatest cathedrals has been under threat of demolition. AC Milan and Internazionale, the two European giants that occupy the Stadio Giuseppe Meazza, more commonly known as the San Siro, seem to be on course for concrete pastures new in the city.

The sacrilegious move to flatten San Siro was met with derision by Milan city councillors, fans of both clubs and lovers of football across the world.

San Siro’s obvious position of important cultural status, like a listed building, was finally agreed, meaning that Milan and Inter will have to look for new homes.

I have developed an unhealthy love for ticking off and photographing grounds and stadia alike. This has consisted mostly of the Scottish Lower Leagues with the most exotic trip so far being at West Ham’s London Stadium.

No doubt the natural progression from here meant going continental. Given the circumstances, The San Siro was my only desired option as a first European ground.

©Reece Mullen/ Terrace Edition. AC Milan vs Udinese Calcio.

Getting to the city was straightforward for me and my girlfriend: Edinburgh to Bergamo, then a coach to Milan Centrale, where our hotel was situated. The next day was match-day, but kick-off wasn’t till 8:45pm, so we indulged in the usual tourist attractions and even squeezed in a visit to Arena Civica, the former home of both Milan and Inter that opened all the way back in 1807, built by request of Napoleon himself as his vision for a colosseum.

The night had come, and we travelled through the metro to the San Siro. Slowly, with every stop, the people on board slowly morphed into members of the Rossoneri, decked out in red and black. Coming up from the underground and into the cold November night was the moment I took my first glimpse.

It has to be seen to really appreciate the true size and grandeur of it. It’s been hyped up many times, but it really is incredible, a massive structure of concrete spirals and lines and a massive red steel crown on top, signifying its place as calcio’s premier arena.

The pre-match surroundings were very different from what I’m used to. A long strip of merch stalls and food and beer vans, each van full of sandwiches and rolls filled with your typical Italian meats and cheeses ready to be toasted and served with beer that venders were more than willing to sell you.

Night and day compared to the draconian drinking laws of Scotland. So, I helped myself to a beer, a few in fact, and a focaccia like roll with prosciutto and provolone toasted to perfectly accompany it.

But some things never change, just like home the heavens opened, and everyone tried to hide under each van or any cover they could get until the gates opened.

And then we were right up close with the San Siro and it was up the spiraling towers to make our way in. The Curva Sud, AC Milan’s prolific ultras had been setting off fireworks as they made their way in enmasse, adding to the surreal feel. At the top, you’re met straight away with the sight of the vast arena and the sheer height of the stadium.

I can see why both clubs may want to move out. Compared to modern stadiums it’s a bit more basic and stripped back and a lot of the infrastructure needs to be improved, those infamous toilets specifically.

But with an hour before kick-off and the stadium already near full, all that subsided as I took in the size of the place, relishing seeing the seven times Champions of Europe, the Ultras’ mass display of flags and then that famous rendition of that Italian pop song, Sara Perche Ti Amo, which the full Rossoneri belted out.

Tonight’s match was in Serie A, AC Milan hadn’t won in a month, suffering defeats to Juventus and PSG in that time. They were up against winless Udinese, so an easier night was to ensue. Right?

I’m not sure what Milan coach Stefano Pioli was thinking, rather wondering was he thinking at all. Milan were uninspiring despite dominating but nothing would muster. Thankfully I was more engrossed in the Curva Sud below. The noise and intensity they brought had me in disbelief. There were probably more in there than the entire Ultras you’d see in Scotland combined.

They are the real deal and Milan are one of the pioneers of the ultras culture. They had their own sound system, an array of massive flags and non-stop pyro being set off like it was nothing. The boisterous support couldn’t be matched by the team they sacrificed their time and money for.

After a goalless first half, Milan were still poor and their sloppiness resulted in conceding a penalty as Udinese’s Ebosele was sandwiched by Adli and Reijnders. Experienced captain Roberto Pereya slotted it away to send the team, away support and bench into raptures.

After that, Milan just seemed to stop working. The plan all night was to get the ball to Leao and hope for the best. They eventually tried for an equaliser in stoppage time but two fantastic saves from Marco Silvestri secured Udinese’s first three points of the season.

The Curva Sud were silent for the last minutes of the match, only looking on instead. It gave the final moments an almost eerie end. When the Milan squad went to thank the fans, the Ultras opened up, responding with jeers and gestures. It was a sour end but all part of an incredible experience.

With the 70,000 crowd and a long wait for the metro in the pouring rain, again it’s like I’m back at Hampden. It was a swift return to the food vans for more beer and toasted sandwiches. Standing under the canopy, I took some time to look back at the structure in front of me, reflecting on the night and experience.

I say The San Siro is probably the grandest in Italy but compared to new stadiums it’s more simple in infrastructure and somewhat outdated. But while it could do with some upgrading in parts, it doesn’t need these over-the-top perks like fast food chains inside or LED lighting.

The San Siro must be seen by anyone with a love for football as it’s an arena for those that truly adore football, the structure, atmosphere and history.

And the rain drips down.

You can find Reece on Twitter and Instagram: @reeceymullen

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